Belfast: A Divided City – Shankill Road and The Falls Road

We began our short tour of the divided city of Belfast with a visit to a housing development in the Protestant Shankill Road area.  The murals on the walls of the buildings are among the most photographed in Ireland.  They point to the fact, as one writer said, that the Irish are much like elephants, they never forget.  The murals range in tone from pacific to heavily militaristic, from recent heroes and events to ancient history and mythology.  The mural below memorialized a modern hero, Stevie Topgun McKeag.

Stevie topgun mckeag

A hero to the Ulster Protestants, but apparently a stone cold  murderer and drug addict.   http://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/oct/01/northernireland.henrymcdonald.

The friendly looking  fellow below is extracted from one of the murals and is one of the most recognized figures.  His eyes supposedly follow you much like those of Mona Lisa are alleged to do.

UFF soldier

Cuchulainn, a nythological Ulster hero is commemorated in the mural below.  http://www.bartleby.com/182/302.html

Read the inscription, enlarged for your benefit.

Cuchulain Cuchulain verbiage

Doesn’t show a lot of sentiment for compromise.  The Ulster people here referenced are Protestant and British.  Their enemies are the Catholic Irish who have been fighting for self rule and their rights for centuries.  With the partition of Ireland, the Catholic majority gained ascendancy in the Republic of Ireland, but, as a large minority, remained disenfranchised until very recently in Ulster, or the six counties that were pared off to create Northern Ireland.

The mural below celebrates the victory of King William III over the Catholic King James. James was trying to regain the throne of England but lost to William in the Battle of the Boyne.  http://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/jul/12/northernireland.comment  Another link: http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/events/battle_of_the_boyne

King william iii

An enduring legend is that of the Red Hand of Ulster, which became the emblem of Ulster’s identity.  http://www.uktravelbureau.com/regions/uk-travel-search-engine-ireland/redhand.cfm

The red hand of ulster

The housing development where these murals are located is a very pleasant place with children’s toys strewn around, belying the militaristic, hateful nature of many of the murals.  As Catholics would not likely enter this area even now, the murals primarily serve as an education and reminder for the Protestant residents.  Keeping the fire stoked one might say.

Shankill road house

Shankill row houses

It is hard to imagine  the hatred that has filled these people for so many years.  Joel, our Protestant driver and Damon, our Catholic driver, went to great lengths to tell us that the situation had greatly improved since the peace accord of 1998 brokered by Bill Clinton and George Mitchell and that real strides were being made in bringing the two communities together.  They claimed that most of the problems now are caused by roughnecks with too little to do and too much time on their hands.  One has to hope that they are right.  Yet, the communities remain divided by “Peace Walls,” not only in Belfast but in other areas of Northern Ireland.  A section of the wall in Belfast below:

Peace wall

A gate in the peace wall:

Gate in peace wall

I believe I am correct that there are 7 gates in the Belfast Peace Wall(s) and they were all closed at night.  According to the driver, one or more are now left open at night and on weekends.  A sign of the lessening of tensions perhaps.  We visited a Catholic residential street, and a shrine to the those who died from that area during the Troubles.

Clonard martyrs

We noticed the Irish language beginning to appear in the Catholic areas, a language they are trying to revive in both the Republican (Catholic) areas of Northern Ireland and in the Republic of Ireland, a language which is despised by the Unionists (Protestants.)  The Irish language is a form of Gaelic, related to the native languages of both Wales and Scotland.

Gina listening to our drivers, Joel on left and Damon on right:

Gina listening to drivers

Yours truly leaning on black taxi:

Old man on taxi

We then drove to the Solidarity Wall on The Falls Road, where the Catholics show their solidarity with other freedom struggles through out the world.  A few of the murals below:

Free the five mural

Oppression resistance mural

Free price mural

War against racism mural

And finally an ad for the Black Cab tours:

Black taxi ad mural

We leave Belfast late afternoon for the Antrim coast.  Below are more interesting links.

First from the Obama administration’s favorite news outlet:

http://www.foxnews.com/world/2013/06/15/for-belfast-keeping-peace-means-towering-walls-to-block-catholic-protestant/

Very good Smithsonian article:

http://www.smithsonianmag.com/people-places/Getting-Past-the-Troubles.html?c=y&story=fullstory

Bloody Sunday:

http://www.bloodysundaytrust.org/

This is an excellent blog entry.  I just wish I could write this well:

http://bulahoop.com/2012/06/27/belfast-murals-remembering-the-troubles/

Rick Steves on Northern Ireland:

http://www.ricksteves.com/tvr/northirerse304_scr.htm

The 1916 Easter Uprising that led to home rule:

http://www.historylearningsite.co.uk/easter_uprising.htm

Formation of the Northern Ireland state:

http://www.gale.cengage.com/pdf/whitepapers/gdc/FormationOfNorthernIreland.pdf

If you are not asleep now, I can’t do anymore.  Next post coming.  Be patient.

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Northern Ireland – Morning in Belfast

We left Dublin early Monday morning and drove straight to Belfast, with only a stop for the necessities.  Our magic carpet looked like this:

Vagatron in belfast

Sean Nee, our tour guide dropped us on the street in Belfast, and this is him driving the Vagatron by the Grand Opera House looking for a parking place.  Yes, Vagatron.  The name for the modified Land Rover Defender used by the Vagabond Adventure Tours.  The box on the back seats 12, comfortably I might add, and the trailer behind carries our luggage.  The company, Vagabond Tours, has the tour well thought out.  I highly recommend trying Vagabond  if you want an active, very interesting tour.  The company also offers a less strenuous tour, Driftwood Tours.  The company website: http://vagabondtoursofireland.ie/

Northern Ireland is part of the U.K., consisting of six  of the original nine counties that comprised the ancient province of Ulster.  There were originally five provinces in Ireland , Leinster, Meath, Munster, Connacht and Ulster.  Over time, Meath was absorbed into Leinster.  This link shows the four provinces and also a list of the counties of Ireland: http://www.enjoyireland.com/provinces/

The start of our trip beginning in Belfast, was not only the start of a marvelous experience, but also the start of a reeducation for me.  The history of Ireland I learned in the States was entirely from the British point of view.  I was of course aware of the Troubles in Northern Ireland, but had no understanding of the historical background.  Even given the whirlwind nature of our visit, we got an education in the realities on the ground so to speak. As I am trying to write this, I keep getting sidetracked following links about Irish history, the Troubles, etc.

The reasons for the Troubles are complex and the resentments of the Catholic population in Northern Ireland toward the English and the Protestants run deep.   The Irish were denied their rights to their religion, their language and their land by their Protestant English overlords.  I could spend hours writing about the topic, but it is beyond the focus of this travel blog.  A search on the internet will provide you with an education on this topic.  Or, spend some time in Northern Ireland.

Belfast on a Monday morning is a bustling city.  Beautiful architecture:

Grand Opera House
The Grand Opera Building.

 

City hall

Another city hall photo
Two photos of the Old City Hall.

 

Bldg for sale
Building for sale

Another belfast bldg
Another Belfast building

This seems like a reasonable activity for just before noon on a Monday morning:

Having a pint in Belfast

Sean dropped us in front of this bar (wonder why?)  Be a beautliful place to spend a little time.

Inside a bar

After hanging around the streets of Belfast for a while, we caught up with Black Cab Tours for a tour of Belfast. http://belfastblackcabtours.co.uk/ Our group split up into two cabs, one driven by a Protestant, one by a Catholic.  More to come.

 

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Ireland – A short day in Dublin

We spent a recent short, very long day in Dublin on the front end of a two week tour of the Emerald Isle.  Fighting jet lag and trying to stay up to get in the time zone, we took a sightseeing tour bus and walked a bit.  Dublin is a fascinating, busy city.  Ireland has approximately 8 million inhabitants (people, probably more sheep) and 4.2 million of them live in Dublin.  Which makes the country side that much more attractive, no?  I guess you would call O’Connell Street the hub of Dublin’s downtown.  The monument below is in honor of Daniel O’Connell, The Liberator.  http://www.clarelibrary.ie/eolas/coclare/people/daniel.htm

Daniel OConnell monument

Trinity College,  a well know institution of higher learning in Dublin,  houses the Book of Kells, a 9th century gospel manuscript.  http://www.tcd.ie/Library/bookofkells/  Below is a pretty lawn near the library housing the Book of Kells.

Trinity College

We visited Christ Church Cathedral, founded in 1028 AD.  http://www.christchurchdublin.ie/Visitors.htm.  Below is the altar area of the Cathedral.

Altar of Christ Church

In Christ Church Place, a common area, I found this rather strange sculpture, Millennium child.

Millenium Child silver efex fine art 2

The River Liffey runs through the center of Dublin.  A rather uninspired photo of same.

River liffey hdr efex soft 2

We finished the day with dinner at J.W. Sweetman’s pub where I had a delicious dish of traditional Irish Stew, then walked back to our hotel.  We had, earlier in the day, an introduction to the graciousness of the Irish.  Walking trying to find the sightseeing bus stop, we were stopped on the sidewalk looking at a map.  Two older ladies (probably younger than I) were crossing the street, and one of them inquired of me, “Are you alright?”  I replied, “I’m alright, just lost.”  Whereupon the lady replied, “You are not lost any longer,” and proceeded to tell us how to get where we wanted.  We continued to marvel throughout our trip about how friendly and gracious the Irish people are.

We did not see much of Dublin during our one tired day there, but hope to return to spend some time there.

The next post we will be in Belfast and Northern Ireland.  Stay tuned.

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But is it real

This is an excellent article in a recent issue of Outdoor Photographer by photographer Elizabeth Carmel,  entitled “But Is iI Real.”

 http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/columns/fleeting-vistas/but-is-it-real.html

A minority of photographers, a very vocal minority, assert that the photograph is what comes out of the camera, that any post processing is contrary to the craft of photography, presents a misleading image and should be banned on pain of torture and death.  Well, maybe they don”t go quite that far, but they still protest vociferously to any manipulation of the image post camera.  This is indeed a valid point when applied to photographic journalism,  which is supposed to be news reporting with a camera.  But then, have you seen or heard any unbiased news reporting lately? Never mind.

I am not a photojournalist.  I am an artist, or at least I claim to be.  I use various tools to present the vision I see in a scene.  When I take a photo, I usually know what I think the end result should be, what the scene looks like to me.  In other words, I am presenting reality as I see it.  Sometimes, crafting the image I desire requires numerous time consuming steps in Light room/Photoshop.  Other times, not so much.  I just purchased an new tool from Topaz Labs, called Restyle.  I use several Topaz tools, and this new one is something else.

I was wandering around Stonington, Maine on a dreary October day back in 2011.  I took a shot (among many others) of an inlet.  Like I said, it was a dreary day, not good for photography.  Here is the result:

 Stonington inlet original

Nice shot, really blah.  One click with Topaz Restyle:

Stonington cove restyle

This is how I saw the scene.  A really beautiful rendering of a beautiful inlet.  I could have achieved the same result with a lot more work, but Topaz made that particular task much easier.  

The shot was taken with a Nikon D7000 and the Nikkor DX 40mm lens.  I no longer own the D7000, having transitioned to Fujifilm.

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Savannah Daydreaming

The song is actually “Havana Daydreaming” by Jimmy Buffett (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Sp3PMOQIhg), but a little literary license never hurt anyone.  We took a short weekend visit to Savannah in the fall last year, for the wedding of the daughter of old friends.  Savannah is one of my favorite cities.  

A website for more information: http://www.visitsavannah.com/Essential-Savannah/Things-To-Do-In-Savannah.html

 

The parish house of St. John’s Episcopal Church, also known as the Green-Meldrim House.

Savannah parish house

 

Music in Madison Square

Music in the square

 

Number 11.  I love doors. 

Number 11 scott5

The river front along the Savannah River has been “gentrified” and is a lovely place for an evening walk.  Lots of good restaurants and funky shops.  Also, the usual local musicians attracting listeners.

Music on the riverfront

These three guys were jiving and were actually pretty good.

Cats jiving on river street

A couple of freighters on the Savannah River.

Freighter on the river hdr efex

Container ship on savannah paint

 A weekend is just not long enough to enjoy Savannah.  We are going back as soon as we can.

 

 

 

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