Ardara and the Cilffs of Sliabh Liag

We took an early morning walk around the village of Ardara waiting for another Irish breakfast.

Ardara 1

 

Our hotel:

Nesbitt arms restyle early morning

 

Gina in front of the hotel with our beloved Vagatron.

Gina and the vagatron in Ardara

 

Owenstock River.

Owenstocl river in Ardara

 

What is the old saying? “Keep your horse close and your enemies closer?”  Maybe not exactly, but as we walked up by this house, a man in his bathrobe was loading a horse into a trailer.  I left him his privacy.  But here is his house.

Ardara horse and house

Some other shots around Ardara.

Ardara barrels and door

Ardara charles mchugh store

Ardara brown door topaz detail

Ardara nancys pub and doug

That is Doug Collins and his BIGGER camera in the shot above.  Nancy’s is where we had dinner the night before.  Below, John, Chris and Gina at breakfast at the Nesbitt Arms.

John chris and gina at breakfast in Ardara

 

Here is the group, a motley looking crew indeed, waiting for Eddie Doherty to open.

Group at eddie doherty

 

The master weaver at work:

Eddie doherty at work

Eddie doherty at work 2

 

Handsome devil wearing a Doherty hat.  Sean ain’t too bad either.  Unfortunately, I could never wear a wool cap in Florida, so Gina wouldn’t let me buy one.

Sean and wes in caps

 

After watching the master at work, off to the Cliffs of Sliabh Liag (Slieve League).  http://slieveleaguecliffs.ie/info

The Giants Chair below, and his giant screen HDR TV.  Actually the rock formation center right is the Giant’s Chair and Desk.

Giants chair

 

We embarked on the Nuala Star for a boat ride to the cliffs, sorrowfully leaving behind our beloved Rob and Kristinia.  They missed a great ride.

The little settlement of Tieleann behind and a rainbow:

View from the boat slieve league and rainbow topaz adjust 5

 

A pretty view below, actually the first photo from Ireland that I’ve sold at an art show.  There is no accounting for taste.

Slieve league cliffs 1 adjust 5

 

Some of our group listening intently to Paddy Byrne, in the blue tee, giving instructions.

Paddy giving instructions

 

Three girls holding on for dear life.  It was a little rough, not too bad tho for us old salts.  One lady on the boat, not of our party, spent most of the trip with her head in a bag.  

Three holding on for dear life

 

Signal tower on top of the cliff.  http://homepage.eircom.net/~signaltowers/carriganhd.html

Slieve league signal tower

 

Paddy tried his best to steal my wife, but she wouldn’t agree.  Sometime you just can’t win.  Just kidding, Gina.

Paddy and gina

 

This old rock building caught my eye.  Like I said, no accounting for taste.

Teilin dock doow and wall

 

We met up with Rob and Kristinia at the Ti Linn cafe, and continued our adventures for another full day.

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On to County Donegal Cont.

After leaving Grianan of Aileach and our instruction in Irish fire fighting tools, We arrived at the Glenveagh National  Park.  Getting there, we crossed back into the Republic of Ireland.  Sean’s border trick didn’t work the second time.  On the way up from Dublin to Belfast, Sean warned us to  have our passports ready as we approached Northern Ireland.  As we were rooting around looking for them, he announced, “we are in Northern Ireland,” of course we didm’t need passports, open border.  Groans all around.  

Back in the Republic, Glenveagh is one of six national parks of Ireland.

 http://www.glenveaghnationalpark.ie/ 

The castle on the property was built by John Adair, who evicted some 244 Irish from the homes and destroyed their dwellings so they would not interfere with his views.  A well loved individual.  Mr. Adair died relatively young, maybe divine retribution? http://www.movilleinishowen.com/history/moville_heritage/land_lords/john_george_adair.htm 

http://www.monikie.org.uk/jamesmurrayassassination.htm  

http://www.ireland-fun-facts.com/derryveagh-evictions.html


A beautiful walk up to the Glenveagh Castle..

Glenveagh 1

Glenveagh 2 hdr bw 2

Glenveagh 3 hdr 2

Glenveagh 4

 

Some views of the grounds of the manor house or castle as the case may be:

Glenveagh gardens and castle

Glenveagh flowers

Yellow flowers

 

Jeannie tiptoeing under the arbor.  

Jeannie tiptoing through the gardens

 

From Glenveagh, we rode to the quaint village of Ardara, still in Co. Donegal.  We spent the night at the Nesbitt Arms Hotel and had a very nice dinner at Nancy’s Pub.  Next a nice morning walk around Ardara, a weaver and the cliffs of Sliabh Liag.

 

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Derry and On To County Donegal

After a restful night at the Strand Hill in Port Stewart, and a marvelous Irish breakfast prepared by Ernestine and her crew, we loaded up our magic carpet and headed out to Derry.  Actually, Sean loaded up the Vagatron, we merely got into our seats and settled in.  Interesting how early on we took the same seats each time.   

Derry, Londonderry or Stroke City.  The history of Ireland and the Northern Ireland Troubles are writ large in the history of Derry.  If I have one regret about our trip, it is that we did not get to spend more time in Derry.  When we return to Ireland, that will be one of our first stops.

The history of Derry stretches back into pre-historic times, one of the oldest continually inhabited sites in Ireland.  It is the only city in Ireland to have retained its wall in its entirety, and one of the few in Europe. A fine brief history of the city. http://www.geographia.com/northern-ireland/ukider01.htm  

We joined the Martin McCrossan tour guide as soon as we arrived in Derry, and embarked on a walk around the city wall.  Derry and indeed all of Northern Ireland are making an effort to show that the Troubles are behind them.  What is one of the first things we saw from the wall? 

West Bank Loyalists

 

The divisions still remain.  http://www.freewebs.com/prodinterface/  But at least things are mostly peaceful now, and hopefully with time and new generations, the hatreds will die away.

Saint Columb’s Cathedral  built in 1633, a beautiful Gothic stricture. http://www.discovernorthernireland.com/St-Columbs-Cathedral-Londonderry-Derry-P2913 Seen from the wall:

St columb cathedral

 

Some scenes along the wall.

 

Wall tower

Derry cannon

 

The Bogside, the Catholic area outside the walls.  http://www.museumoffreederry.org/history-bogside01.html 

Bogside 1

 

The young girl in the mural is Annette McGavigan who was shot and killed by a British soldier in 1971. http://www.hidden-dublin.com/tours/deathofinnocence.html

 Annette mcgavigan mural

 

St. Augustine’s Church and graveyard, built on the site of St. Columba’s monastery.  http://www.discovernorthernireland.com/Saint-Augustines-Church-Londonderry-Derry-P3323

St augustines chapel

St augustine gfraveyard end of road

 

Leaving Derry, reluctantly I might add, we headed out to the site of an old hill fort, Grianan of Aileach.  http://www.megalithics.com/ireland/grianan/granmain.htm  The original ring fort dates back to the Late Bronze Age most likely, and the current fort was restored in the late 19th Century.  We ate a bag lunch at the fort, enjoying the environment and company immensely.  Here are Holly and Kristinia.  It was a breezy day, actually quite windy on top of the knoll.

 Holly and kristinia at hill fort

 

Here are the odd couple and someone’s guard dog in the entrance.

The odd couple at the hill fort

 

A few views of and from the hill fort.  As you stand on the top parapet looking out over the landscape, the wind blowing, you can almost feel the history, hear the battle cries of the warriors, the screams of the wounded.  History is soaked deep in the hilltop. A beautiful spot.

Hill fort

Hill fort view 1

Hill fort view 2

Hill fort view 3

 

Leaving the hill fort, we stopped for a rest and fuel break, and got some more education.  An Irish fire extinguisher:

Irish fire extinguisher

 

Back in the bus, a happy crew, Gina, Mother Mary Lou and Jeannie.

Back in the bus

 

I’ll finish the rest of the day in the next post.  Anticipation is a wonderful thing.

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Carrick-A-Rede and the Giants Causeway

Leaving the village of Carnlough behind, we drove to the Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge. 

 http://www.discovernorthernireland.com/Carrick-a-Rede-Rope-Bridge-Antrim-Northern-Ireland-Ballintoy-Ballycastle-P2829

The stop at Carrick-A-Rede was our introduction to the dramatic coastal line of northern and western Ireland.  Combine the many shades of green of the countryside with the spectacular cliffs and ocean views, you have unsurpassed beauty.  The rope bridge itself is a sturdy affair and not much to write home about unless you suffer as I do from acrophobia.  So, needless to say, i hurried across the bridge without stopping to take pictures.  Here is less timid Gina coming across the bridge.

Gina on rope bridge

 

A couple of views of the coast line of Carrick-A-Rde:

Carrick rede coast 1 soft

Carrick a rede coast hdr bw

 

Gina taking a break after the harrowing trip across the rope bridge.

Taking a break on Carrick a rede

 

A boat sitting on the path to the rope bridge.  It was probably used to recover the bodies of people who fell from the rope bridge.  You think?

Carrick boat clarity adj5 hdr

 

After leaving Carrick-A-Rede, we stopped for a few minutes at the pretty little Ballintoy Harbor nearby.  http://www.ports.org.uk/port.asp?id=332

The beach was recently used for filming of an episode of the Game of Thrones.
 http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/entertainment/film-tv/news/gory-game-of-thrones-scene-filmed-at-wellknown-beauty-spot-ballintoy-beach-29653592.html

Ballintoy harbor clarity

Ballintoy rocks hdr artistic

 

Reluctantly leaving the harbor at Ballintoy, we were faced with a decision.  There was a stop scheduled at the Bushmills Distillery.  Those discerning folks among us who didn’t particularly want to do the distillery tour were offered a surprise by Sean.  Having been to the finest distillery in the world, in one of the prettiest sports in the world, The Makers Mark Distillery in Loretto, Kentucky, USA, we chose to see what Sean had up his sleeve.  We dropped the less discerning at the distillery, and Sean took us to the Dark Hedges.  The beech trees creating a canopy over the lane were planted by the Stuart family in the eighteenth century as a dramatic entry to their home.  It is one of the most photographed sites in Northern Ireland, and was used for a scene in the Game of Thrones series.  http://www.visitballymoney.com/the-dark-hedges.aspx 

Dark hedges efex hdr bw

The figure in the scene above may be the Grey Lady gliding along the lane. Or maybe not.  Interesting structure on a beech tree below pointed out by Kathy, fellow Vagabonder from Oregon.  

 (Beech tree knots hdr bw artistic

Kathy also introduced me to the word soughing (pronounced suffing), which was quite appropriate in the location.  Look it up.  Oh, ok …..  defined as “a soft murmuring or rustling sound, as of the wind or a gentle surf.”

We picked up the group dropped at the Bushmills Distillery, and spent the rest of the trip having Rick worrying about the 200 year old whiskey he bought.  Well, maybe not two hundred years old, but apparently a pretty special brew.  Luckily, nobody drank it, so I guess Rick got home with it.  Then, on to the Giant’s Causeway.  We first drove by the spot where Sean would meet us, then he drove out to a spot for us to start a scenic walk along the cliffs.  Maybe five kilometers, Sean says.  Right.  

What a spectacular walk, though. Walking along the edge of the cliffs from Dunseverick where he dropped us to the Giant’s Causeway took a solid 2 1/2 hours, up and down, but worth every step.  

Dunseverick was the site of a castle probably originally constructed around 1525 BC and finally destroyed by the Normans in the 17th century.  http://www.castles.nl/eur/ie/ds/ds.html  http://www.coasteeringni.co.uk/coasteering/venues/dunseverick/

Dunseverick cliffs and ruins

Dunseverick castle 2

Following are some shots taken along the way.  I could post a lot more, but with our modern short attention spans, these should suffice.  A little background, scientists claim that the Giant’s Causeway is the result of geological forces, volcanic upheavals.  We know better.  http://www.causewaycoastandglens.com/Folklore-and-Legend.T1153.aspx.  Finn McCool is the reason for this tourist attraction.  When we reached the Causeway it was covered up with those despicable types of people sometimes known as tourists, so not much photography there.

Up the coast from dunseverick

Fish house in distance

 

The couple on the left are Doug and Kathy Collins from Oregon.  The picture was taken by an Irish couple who stopped to talk with us, the photo below, Brenda and Michael.

Collins and cowleys

Brenda and michael

 

A little artistic look at one of the scenes along the walk.  For the more discerning among us.  That is Rathlin Island in the distance, I believe.

Cliffs and island

 

Rugged landscape.

Cliffs and rocks bw

 

A look away from the water.  Notice the sheep in the picture.  This was a rarity, to see sheep in a field.  Actually, they were all over the place.  More sheep the Irish one might imagine.  To be precise,  there are almost 2 million sheep in Northern Ireland.  http://www.dardni.gov.uk/sheep-2012.pdf   Although we were not there as of yet, we would also see evidence of sheep farming in the Republic of Ireland. There are almost 3.5 million sheep in the Republic.  http://www.agriculture.gov.ie/media/migration/animalhealthwelfare/animalidentificationandmovement/NationalSheepGoatCensus2011100512.pdf 

No wonder lamb stew is so popular.

Pasture sheep and tractor

 

Another view away from the water.

A view across the fields from the Causeway walk

 

More rugged coastal terrain.

Causeway walk cliffs efex hdr

 

Reaching the end of the trail so to speak, Gina still looked pretty good after a good 2.5 hour stroll up and down the hills.

Gina at the Causeway

 

And this could well be called “The Beauty and The Beast.”

Beauty and the beast at the Causeway

 

Our next stop was the Dunluce Castle, I believe the only remaining coastal castle after the Normans cleared out the coastline in the 17th Century.  Here is a short history of the castle:
http://www.northantrim.com/dunlucehistory1.htm 

Dunluce castle hdr bw

 

After a brief stop at the castle, we went on to Port Stewart and a night at the Strand Hill.  One of the nicest of our many nice accommodations.  More coming.

 

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County Antrim and Carnlough

We left Belfast for the coast of County Antrim, arriving in the village of Carnlough (from the Irish Carnlach, which means Place of Cairns) late afternoon.  Dropping our luggage at the hotel, we set off on the first of many hikes/walks we were to take during the next twelve days.

A view from above of the main street in Carnlough (Vagatron hiding in the lower corner:)

Carnlough main drag

On the walk up to Cranny Falls, one of the many scenic treats Sean would subject us to over the next several days, wet got our first real introduction to the many shades of Ireland, the Emerald Isle.

Antrim co fields

We would see many abandoned homes during our travels.

Abandoned home near Cranny Falls

Another abandoned home on right and the North Channel in the distance.

Antrim co coast and house

This young lady is happy to hiking in Northern Ireland.

Gina on way to Cranny Falls

Cranny Falls, and a stream flowing from the falls.

Cranny falls

Cranny falls stream

 Walking back through the village of Carnlough, we saw a reminder  of the Troubles:

Ira bldg carnlough

The IRA political wing is very much a part of Northern Ireland politics.  Here is their local office.

Sein Fein office

We spent the night in Carnlough at the Londonderry Arms Hotel, an historical old place with loads of charm.  

Londonderryarms hotel

The Arms was once owned by Winston Churchill through inheritance.  http://www.discovernorthernireland.com/Londonderry-Arms-Hotel-Carnlough-Ballymena-P3958  Getting to our rooms that night was interesting, first a tiny elevator up one floor, down a corridor, up three steps, further down the corridor, down three steps, turn a corner, up three steps through a door, then down seven steps to our room, which was back on the ground floor.  Had I been able to open the window completely the next morning, I would have put our suitcases out the window rather than back through the serpentine hallway.  Very pleasant room nonetheless.

The dinner was very good and in a very pleasant environment.  The group having dinner: 

Dinner at Londonderry Arms

Sean, our guide and leader is the young man standing at the end of the table.  Yours truly took the picture so you miss the pleasure of my image.  The beer belonged to Sean by the way.

 After a restful night, Gina and I set out for a early walk around the little town before loading up in the Vagatron.  We didn’t have long as slavedriver Sean would have us loaded up by 9 AM most mornings, sometimes even before.  Gina in front of the North Channel:

Gina by the sign carnlough

Carnlough has a pretty little harbor, originally built by the owners of nearby quarries.  It is now used for pleasure boating and fishing.

Carnlough harbor hdr soft

Signal lights in the harbor:

Carnlough signal lights efex soft colors

Old building with two doors:

Carnough two doors color efex

Sunrise between the buildings:

 Carnlough sunrise between buildings 2

 Carnlough was a neat little village, a great way to start our tour of the countryside of Ireland.  After a good Irish breakfast, Sean loaded us up and off we went for a new day’s adventures.  Of course, because we were on Vagabond Adventure Tours of Ireland.

 

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